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History
Human Prehistory
Repeatedly
occupied and abandoned during prehistoric times, Natural Bridges was first
used during the Archaic period, from 7000 B.C. to A.D. 500. Only the rock
art and stone tools left by hunter-gatherer groups reveal that humans
lived here then. Around AD 700, ancestors of modern Puebloan people moved
onto the mesa tops to dry farm and later left as the natural environment
changed. Around AD 1100, new migrants from across the San Juan River moved
into small, single-family houses near the deepest, best-watered soils
throughout this area. In the 1200's, farmers from Mesa Verde migrated
here, but by the 1300's the ancestral Puebloans migrated south. Navajos
and Paiutes lived in the area during later times, and Navajo oral
tradition holds that their ancestors lived among the early Puebloans.
European History
In 1883, prospector Cass Hite wandered up White Canyon from his base camp
along the Colorado River in search of gold. What he found instead was
three magnificent bridges water had sculpted from stone. In 1904,
National Geographic Magazine publicized the bridges, and in 1908
President Theodore Roosevelt established Natural Bridges National
Monument, creating Utah's first National Park Service area.
Naming the Bridges
Several names have been applied to the bridges. First named
"President," "Senator" and "Congressman"by
Cass Hite, the bridges were renamed "Augusta,"
"Caroline" and "Edwin" by later explorer groups. As
the park was expanded to protect nearby Puebloan structures, the General
Land Office assigned the Hopi names "Sipapu,"
"Kachina" and "Owachomo" in 1909. Sipapu means
"the place of emergence," an entryway by which the Hopi believe
their ancestors came into this world. Kachina is named for rock art on the
bridge that resembles symbols commonly used on kachina dolls. Owachomo
means "rock mound," a feature atop the bridge's east abutment.
Places
Horsecollar
Ruin
The
Horsecollar Ruin site is a major attraction at Natural Bridges, and one of
the most interesting ancestral Puebloan sites in the area. The name Horsecollar
comes from the shape of the doorways to several structures here, which
were thought to resemble horsecollars. Abandoned more than 700 years ago,
its remarkable state of preservation--for example, an undisturbed kiva
with an original roof and interior design--is due to the isolation of
Natural Bridges and the relatively few visitors who make the journey down
these canyons.
History
Horsecollar Ruin has an interesting history. Discovered by non-Indians in
the late 1880's, it was a source of interest for many visitors to the
area. In 1907, they were first recorded by an expedition which later
recommended the establishment of Natural Bridges National Monument,
founded the next year. Sometime thereafter, they seem to have been
forgotten. One cold November day in 1936, they were rediscovered by Zeke
Johnson, the first curator of the Monument. He wrote:
I am very much thrilled over a discovery I
made the other day. I was working about half way between Sipapu and
Kachina Bridges and at lunch time I was in the narrow canyon where the sun
does not shine very much at that time of year, but I could see that about
thirty feet above me the sun was shining warm and bright on the cliff. I
crawled up a broken ledge thinking that it would be nice to eat my lunch
there when to my surprise I saw a ledge full of houses, within 80 yards of
the trail over which I have walked for more than twenty years. There is
one large kiva with the roof almost complete and a fine ladder standing in
the hatchway with the small willows still holding the rungs in place. I
could not tell how many rungs are on the ladder because of the debris
which the pack rats have piled up around its base; only three and a half
feet show between the top of the pile and the hatch. Beside the kiva are
two well-preserved stone and adobe houses with no roofs but walls which
are in a fine state of preservation. A small barrel shaped structure abuts
against one of the houses. Six or eight rooms with walls of fine masonry
but partly torn down are also on the ledge. There is a lot of broken
pottery and flaked stone lying about. I picked up six arrow points and
several broken ones. You know, I felt like a foolish kid to have passed so
near these ruins for so many years and not know of their presence, but
someone had found them before I did many years ago; a few pits have been
dug in the ruins but the kiva has not been touched.
Thus, Horsecollar ruins reentered the world
of Natural Bridges. Not much has changed since Zeke Johnson's day. The
ladder into the kiva is gone, and much of the debris inside has been
removed. Sadly, one can no longer find pottery or arrowheads here
anymore--practically everything has been taken away by other visitors. But
much still remains here to delight the eye and mind.
The kiva, for example, is incredibly well
preserved, and a rare find. The roof remains original and unaltered by the
Park Service. You can see how it was built--large roof beams, overlain by
smaller branches, then by reeds and thin sticks, and finally covered by a
generous layer of mud-plaster. The ladder, which once protruded from a
hole in the roof, has been removed for safekeeping. More than 700 years
old like the ruins themselves, it cannot stand to have people climbing on
it. Amazingly, some visitors still try to climb inside, often destroying
part of the remaining roof. However you don't need to climb in to see
what's there. If you look in carefully from the side, you can still see
the original fire pit near the center of the floor. In front of it is an
upright slab of rock--a deflector stone designed to keep air currents
coming from the ventilator shaft in the front wall from blowing out the
fire. Toward the rear wall is a small hole called a "Sipapu,"
perhaps representing the gateway from which the Hopi believe one's spirit
enters and leaves this world. There is also a "bench" against
the back wall. Was it used as a chair? Storage? While we may never know
such specifics, these things left by past peoples fuel our imaginations
and add to our perspective.
The round "Horsecollar" ruins at
the far right end of the alcove are also much as Zeke Johnson first saw
them. If you look closely, you can see which one was built first (Hint:
one half is completely round, while the other is "stuck on" to
the round one). No one knows the exact purpose of these unusual rooms. Why
are they so perfectly round, and why did their builders not use the back
of the alcove as a wall and save themselves much work? Were they ever
roofed? If not, why bother constructing plaster floors? Were they used for
storage? If so, why were fires lit inside them? If you come up with a good
answer to this puzzle, feel free to jot it down in the register book or
tell a Ranger. The remaining structures here--including living space,
storage chambers, and at least one other kiva, are in various states of
decay, but are still relatively well preserved.
You may notice near this kiva a partially
burnt piece of wood which has been neatly sawed in half. Archaeologists
have taken a sample of the log to use for dating these ruins. Wetter and
drier years have produced a pattern of thick and thin growth rings in the
wood, which can be perfectly matched to a known pattern of these rings
found in wood across the Southwest. This method, known as dendrochronology,
allows scientists to tell precisely the age of a piece of wood, and often
even the season in which the tree was cut. Because Natural Bridges has
been part of the Park Service for so long, its ruins have been well
studied and now provide the longest running complete record of tree-ring
dates in the Utah, and one of the best in the Southwest. The record is
often used by archaeologists elsewhere to date wood.
One hundred meters to the north, along this
same cliff level, is the north section of Horsecollar Ruins. They consist
of several large, finely mortared rooms, with one additional area in front
made of stones laid without mortar, and crudely built compared to the
others. Why was this oddball room built? Perhaps the builders did not have
the luxury of time to make a finely mortared structure. Perhaps fine
construction was not necessary, the room being simply a storage room, or
for summer use, or maybe a "playpen" to allow small children to
be outdoors but away from the cliff edge. Interestingly, one of the
doorways here was remodeled to make a smaller opening. Perhaps this was
done to conserve heat in the winter, or to impede entry in case of attack.
Horsecollar is among the largest and best
preserved ancestral Puebloan structures in the Monument. It stands as a
reminder that people have lived here for hundreds of years and that we are
but the latest visitors in this fragile and beautiful place.
Kachina Bridge
Kachina
is "the middle bridge". Spanning the canyon equidistant from
both Owachomo and Sipapu
bridges. It is larger than Owachomo but smaller than Sipapu. Proving that
canyons are dynamic rather than static, approximately 4,000 tons of
sandstone fell from the inside of the Kachina bridge opening in June,
1992, enlarging the opening as it has doubtless been enlarged time and
time again.
History
Government surveyor William Douglas
dubbed the bridge "Kachina" when he found petroglyphs and
pictographs depicting dancing figures carved on the base of the bridge.
Douglas assumed that the ancestral Puebloan people who left the ancient
rock art were related to the present day Hopi people, and that the painted
and carved figures represented Kachina dancers.
Before Douglas, local cowboy Jim Scorup
named the bridge "Caroline" in honor of his mother. Before that,
Cass Hite had named it "Senator.
Owachomo
Bridge
Owachomo
is the smallest and thinnest of the three natural bridges here and is
commonly thought to be the oldest. We may never know for certain, as each
of the bridges certainly have eroded at different rates. Regardless of its
relative age, it is certainly the most fragile and elegant of the three
spans, and an awe inspiring feature of erosion.
History
Owachomo means "rock mound" in Hopi and is named after the rock
formation on top of the east end of the bridge. Before William Douglas
gave it this name in 1908, it was called "Edwin" or
"Little" bridge. Prior to that, it was referred to as
"Congressman" by miner and explorer Cass Hite.
Early in the Monument's development, a dirt
road led to Owachomo bridge from the south. It ended at the campground and
ranger station directly southwest of the bridge. There were no other
roads, and visitors seeking the other two bridges hiked or rode horses
through the rugged canyons, often guided by the first
"custodian" of the National Monument, Ezekial "Zeke"
Johnson. Today, remnants of "Zeke's trail", now on the National
Register of Historic Places, can still be seen just across the canyon
below Owachomo.
Sipapu Bridge
Sipapu
is the largest and most spectacular of the three bridges in the Monument.
It is considered middle aged, older than Kachina but younger than
Owachomo. Its rounded opening and smooth sides are mute evidence of
countless floods bearing scouring rocks and sand. This bridge, whose
opening would almost house the dome of the United States Capitol, has
taken thousands of years to form but will someday collapse and erode as
part of the endless cycles of time and change.
History
We will never know the names given to the
bridges by early inhabitants of this land. The Paiute referred to all
bridges as mah-vah-talk-tump, translated today as under the
horse's belly. While today we refer to this bridge as Sipapu, is has
known several names in the last 100 years:
President
This name was applied by Cass Hite in 1883. Hite operated a placer gold
mine on the Colorado River and explored White Canyon from there.
Augusta
Horace Long, who explored the region in 1904, renamed the bridge after his
wife.
Sipapu
A Hopi term for the opening between worlds, the present name was given by
William Douglas, who led a government survey party to the bridges in 1908,
mapping the exact boundaries of the new national monument. Douglas thought
that the ruins and rock art found in the area must be related to the Hopi
people of northern Arizona
Activities
Accessibility
The visitor center and rest
rooms are accessible to all persons. The campground has no designated site
for disabled persons but has several sites and one rest room accessible.
The three bridge overlook trails are accessible via a concrete sidewalk,
however the sidewalk to the Kachina Bridge viewpoint may not be accessible
with a standard wheelchair due to its slope.
Camping
The Monument's 13-site
campground is open year-round, but it is not cleared of snow in the
winter. The fee is $10 per night. No reservations are accepted and there
is no group site available. Wood fires are permitted, but no wood
gathering is allowed inside the Monument. Vehicles over 26 feet long are
not allowed in the campground. All sites fill by early afternoon from
early March through late October. Rangers at the visitor center can give
directions to nearby alternate camping areas.
Hiking
There are several short trails
leading to natural bridges and other features.These include:
• Sipapu
• Kachina
• Owachomo
• Horsecollar Ruin
Loop Hike
While you can see all three bridges and one canyon archeological site from
viewpoints along or near the road, you really haven't experienced the
hidden beauty of Natural Bridges until you take at least a short walk
below the rim or out onto the mesa top away from the pavement. Hikes vary
from 30 minutes on relatively flat terrain to all day adventures through
the deep canyons.
Starting at any of the three
bridges, an unmaintained trail system takes you to all three bridges and
back across the mesa top to your starting point. The entire loop is about
8.2 miles long and requires about 5 - 6 hours minimum. Hiking between two
of the three bridges reduces the mileage to about 5.5 and the time needed
to about 3 - 4 hours.
Any of the loop hikes should
be considered strenuous, since they require ascents and descents of up to
500 vertical feet and Monument elevations range from 6,000 to 6,500 feet
above sea level. Hiking the trails during winter can be hazardous due to
accumulations of ice and snow, especially the sections entering/exiting
the canyon at Sipapu and Kachina Bridges.
Ranger-led Activities
Ranger programs are presented
in the campground amphitheater spring through fall. Topics and times vary;
see schedules posted on area bulletin boards. Guided walks and visitor
center patio talks may also be offered. Programs are not presented during
the winter months. A Junior Ranger Program is available, with an eight
page Kids newspaper full of stories, puzzles, games, and activities.
Badges are awarded to children who finish the required number of
activities for their age group.
Scenic Drive
The nine mile long Bridge View
Drive is a one-way scenic loop starting and ending near the visitor
center. Overlooks for each of the three bridges and one cliff dwelling are
reached by short walks from parking areas along the drive. A trailhead for
each bridge is also located along the drive, as is a small picnic area.
The road is plowed in the winter. The scenic drive is open every day from
early morning until about 30 minutes past sunset.
Visitor Center
The Visitor center has
exhibits, an audiovisual program, books, maps and videos for sale. Rangers
are on duty to answer questions and collect entry fees. Informal
interpretive programs may be given on the patio during peak season. Rest
rooms and water are available 24 hours a day. The hours are:
Summer: 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
Spring/Fall: 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
Winter: 9:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
Closed for major holidays during winter months
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